Tool no longer available according to Midway site 2Apr14.
Unless raceways are as rough as my ex’s divorce tactics, smoothing them is optional, not necessary. Lubing them and the bolt body with a skimpy coating of Valvoline Extreme Pressure, NLGI Grade 2, or other lubricant of similar characteristics that has a small amount of powdered graphite sprinkled on top of the grease is the best way of making that bolt slide with no binding. Your local auto parts may have both the grease and the “locksmith” powdered graphite. Molybdenum disulfide powder (MoS2, Moly) could be used instead of graphite.
After working bolt back and forth a few times, remove 98% of the grease and graphite from bolt and raceways (especially where the lugs slide).
Make sure to clean chamber, lugs, bolt face and extractor claw to remove all grease. Put back a very little grease/graphite or gun oil on the lug contact faces with a Q-tip or toothpick.
Assuming that an old bolt action with a smooth-working bolt got that way through wearing it in with many strokes of the bolt can be a bad assumption. If your bolt is hanging, binding, or sticking on opening, closing, or sliding back or forward, make sure that a search for the cause is attempted first. The following video (start at around min. 17) can help in locating bolt working problems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fjwM_VAgTg
April 2, 2014 at 2:32 pm
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