I get regular e-mail alerts from Graf and Sons. They have one of the BEST selection of 8mm Bullets anywhere. They also stock the Saeco 8mm molds. Just click the pic and check it out.
Rifles need to be cleaned after every round of shooting. In fact, I clean after every ten shot strings (5 shots each) when I am shooting for 8mm cast bullet accuracy. Last night was different. Last night I started with the Oberndorf .308 Mauser. The gunsmith and I inspected the barrel with his bore scope and found the usual (60 year old) pitting. There was also some copper and lead fouling. He set me up with some lapping paste and away I went.
The procedure for restoring this old Mauser barrel is my own. So if you know of a better one let me know. First I removed the bolt and plugged the Mauser barrel with an old ear plug. Then I inserted a bore guide and filled the barrel with “Shooters Choice” bore cleaning solvent. While waiting for the solvent to work I cleaned the bolt and shot the breeze with a neighbor.
After 15 minutes I dumped the bore solvent and what a mess came out – mud, and lots of it! Let’s say the first 1/3 of shooters choice was clear and the rest was mud – good. I removed the plug from the muzzle end and covered it with a balloon to catch the patches. I scrubbed with some 30 strokes with a .32 caliber bronze bore brush. Then, after 10 patches, I pulled the balloon and ran a patch – still a bit dirty, not bad, but in close to rifling there were issues. So I put the balloon on and grabbed a 30 caliber mop.
After a liberal application of lapping paste I started. Now I have to say here that my neighbor owns no guns and so he was all questions and rather intrigued at what I was doing. He is, however, a mechanic, and so he warned me not to be too aggressive with the lapping compound – point well taken. Bore lapping, well-done that is, can enhance a barrels performance. Bore lapping that is overdone can ruin a bore. I have heard many grits and number of strokes mentioned as a “Rule of thumb” I do it by feel.
After 25-30 strokes the paste has already done its job removing the remaining fouling, copper (although the patches that came out did not show copper present after the shooters choice was used) and lead. I already know that the bore is pitted, I cannot help that, but this Mauser barrel has strong rifling and I begin to feel the process “smooth out” so to speak. The strokes are easier and less abrasive to feel. So i Stop, patch out the Mauser barrel with a couple more patches soaked with shooters choice, until we have no more residue.
Now I must say here that you can feel the difference with those last two dry patches – smooth, even, strokes that feel as though they are lubricated but are not.
After this I check the bore with a light and wow! What a difference….and here is the kicker, I took no pictures !@#$%$#@&* ! I must remember to take pictures to show you. I will too as I am about to do the same process on a Lee Enfield MK IV that I just picked up. I have never shot, much less owned a Enfield and am eager to try it out, so give me a week or so to get the job done and posted here. You can subscribe and get an instant notice when I do post AND I DO NOT SELL, GIVE OUT OR OTHERWISE ABUSE ANOTHER PERSONS E-MAIL.
Anyway, have a good day, and take your wife and kids out shooting with ya’
Redding is one of the few companies that actually makes a competition seating die for the 8mm Mauser. When making accurate ammo for your 8mm Mauser you need accurate dies. Midway USA has them. Ammosmith does a great job with his tutorials. Be sure to subscribe to his channel!
This is a great video showing how to adjust proper sight picture on the 8mm Mauser. With instructions for windage and elevation adjustments of the 8mm Mauser your ballistics references will help you to accurately set your sights. Also, instruction on properly filing front sight post.
Well, good news (I think). Seems other Mauser Loaders have had a similar problem with the 8mm karabiner round. Big, fat and long is a problem for the “Delicate” throat of a Yugo 48 Mauser. Seems these folks are setting the bullet to the last groove and crimping a bit. When the round is chambered it engages the lands and all is well. Sure enough, I have tried a couple dummy rounds and found that an OAL of 2.81 allows ample room for round and does not leave too much of the bullet extending into the cartridge. Tomorrow night I will load and fire a dozen or so over some Alliant 2400 – pictures to follow.
Well, it happens to the best of us. Every once in a while we run into a mold we cannot pass up. For me it was the 8mm Karabiner. I bought one on e-bay, great price, and cast up 100 rounds. Gas checked and sized i squashed the first three cases I attempted to load. Then, after a successful load was made I attempted to chamber a round. The 8mm Karabiner is fat and heavy 234-236 grains from my mold. That first round would not chamber, so set it back and tried again, and again, and again. Each time the 8mm Karabiner would not chamber. It is so fat that in my Yugoslavian 8mm Mauser the lands engage the bullet only after it is protruding from the case .450! This makes the OAL 2.67…
So what to do? Start checking the gunboards, reloading boards, etc. Seems some guys have gone to great lengths to make these rounds work in their Yugo 48 Mausers. Some have even used their chamfering tool to shave the nose down.
Now I am not afraid to have a round protruding into the case, which this one must do, a total of .660! But that is quite a bit, even for me. Anyway, does someone need a Karabiner Mold that is lightly used?
Handloads.com is a great site for anyone who loads 8mm Mauser rounds. Whether cast or jacketed bullets are your preference in your Mauser, handloads.com can help you to accurately determine the ballistics of whatever bullet you are loading. Just enter the appropriate data and the handloads.com ballistic calculater will give you the 8mm ballistics you need from 10-1000 yards in increments of 50, 100, 200 yards.
My “Full-time job is as Exec. Director of a residential children’s Camp. As such, May thru September is, well, busy. I had not had a chance to shoot me Yugo Mauser, or anything else, for quite some time – I was having withdrawals!
Camp was quiet last Saturday after 250 people left. So I pulled out my Yugo 48 Mauser, grabbed some 175 grain reloads and headed to the rifle range. Our .22 rifle range HERE AT THE CAMP that is. I was shooting the 50 Meters with my new “MoJo” Mauser sights. Seems my eyes are not as good as they used to be and I need some help. With the MoJo sighting system I was able to keep 5 rounds at an inch. Mostly I found out that these sights work great, but my targets were some oval-shaped ‘Shoot-n-See” .22 paste ons that did not afford a good sight picture anyway as the filled the apertures and left no room for orientation. I will shoot some more soon as camp ends the 27th and we are off for vacation the 28th. Hopefully I can do better at a hundred yards with the CBA record fire targets.
Gordy does a great job in his videos. Very professional. Be sure to sign-up for his “You-tube” channel. This type of work can be done on your Mauser 8×57, 7mm-08 or otherwise. Pay attention to the .002 headspace correction – pretty good little trick there Gordy!
Alot of people think that making a 8mm Mauser rifle accurate requires alot of money. Not true. The 8mm Mauser, as well as other factory Mausers, is one of the most accurate rifles ever produced during wartime or peacetime.
If a Mauser rifle does not shoot worth a hoot, its a good chance the barrel may be a bit worn, or, a bit bigger than you rounds you are shooting. Here is a handy tool to help you to slug an old, or new, rifle barrel.
Take a cast lead bullet. Something around .325. Tap it through your barrel with a mallet and dowel. Do not use a steel cleaning rod. Then take your calipers and measure the dia